Is it quirky to the point of being different from every other fine dining restuarant in the world? Yes.
But here's the bottom line -- the food is inventive and sublime, challenging, yet always delicious, and it's possible to taste the dedicated passion in every bite. And Schwa's BYOB policy makes it a dining extravaganza serious food fanatics can't afford to miss.
After waiting patiently by the phone for a call-back on our reservation request, making the reservation, eagerly awaiting our reserved evening, enduring a last-minute cancellation due to gas line problems, and finally dining two days after our originally reserved date, we made it to dinner at Schwa (our second trip there in the past seven months).
The dining milieu:
Located in a nondescript neighborhood at 1466 North Ashland, Schwa will greet you with a ragged screen door covering a plain storefront, which beats a lot of other high end Chicago restaurants (you know who you are, Achatz) by at least announcing its presence with a sign. Inside, loud indy music with unprintable lyrics will likely be playing and you'll discover a straightforward modern dining space accommodating just 26 diners. The serving is done with unpolished enthusiasm by the members of the kitchen staff in their T-shirts. We'll take that any day over stuffy, snotty "polished" waiters. Diners are offered a choice of either a nine-course tasting menu or a 3-course dinner. Two things should be noted: #1 - They will probably always serve diners more than the advertised number of courses; and #2 - We shall probably never find out first-hand about the 3-course dinner.
What follows is the important part -- the description of the food -- again, text is contributed by:
Beer Boy / Bacon Dude / Mike
Schwa, 27 May2011
9* course dinner
* in reality, more like 14
Wine
Bottle: Marchesa, Gavi, 2009
Bottle: Gordon Brothers, "Tradition", Columbia Valley
Bottle: Susana Balbo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, 2008
Food
Amuse
Cherry-covered chocolate (no, they don't mean chocolate covered cherry) in a small amount of Manhattan
1) Crab
the "salad" course
Jonah crab salad in pineapple (some grilled, some pickled) cones; taro root chips; proscuitto; macadamia nut puree; balsamic vinegar; micro bull's blood greens
2) Baked Potato
the "soup" course; their version of Wendy's old baked potato bar
Potato soup; scallions; Barely Buzzed cheddar cheese bridge across the soup; potato skins; sour cream; scallion puree; bacon puree
* Bonus Course, the first *
Quail egg raviolo; parmesan brown-butter; truffle oil.
Served with instructions to down it in a single bite -- no cutting allowed. (Apparently the significant slurping -- which we did loudly and long -- IS permitted.)
3) Riso
Chicken liver risotto; taleggio cheese; fried shallots; honey; blackberry puree; peppercrest garnish; summer truffle oil
4) Roe
"it should taste like Fruit Loops if you get a bite of everything at once"
Steelhead roe; passionfruit gelee; pickled papaya; violet bubble foam; tempura (roe, lime zest, and more)
* Bonus Course, the second *
Orange juice soda, with basil & coriander
A (shared with the waiter) shot of aquavit to start:
Seared diver scallop; rye crisp; rye pudding; meyer lemon; mustard greens; mustard seeds; rutabaga balls
6) Trail Mix
Sous vide wild boar with blueberry, thyme, & butter; dehydrated trumpet mushrooms; chicharrones; parsley puree; consomme in a shot glass mirroring all other ingredients, for sipping
7) Smores
Chocolate mole beef shortribs; graham cracker puree; marshmallow flavored with cardamom; graham cracker crumbles; food set atop a glass container filled with smoke
8) Cheese
Pretzel grougere filled with Chimay cheese; Chimay foam; mustard skin
9) Dessert
Celery root cake; celery branch puree; aerated white chocolate; banana leather; caramelized banana; caramel
* Bonus Course, the third *
"Dr. Pepper and whiskey" on a plate; side glass of regular Dr. Pepper on its own
* Bonus Course, the fourth *
Raspberry pudding; rose sorbet on an inverted shot glass
The Verdict: The simplest observation we can make about Schwa is that it is all about the food -- not the trappings of setting or view, waiters or fine linens, money plundered from liquor bills, or any of the other trimmings usually associated with extraordinary dining. The focus is the inspirational and often whimisical conceptualization of dishes and progression of flavors -- and the passionately perfectionistic execution of that vision of food. This is the unique genius of Schwa and Executive Chef Michael Carlson:
Schwa was one of only 23 restaurants in Chicago to receive any kind of Michelin star last October. Schwa was one of the 18 that received a single star. Kind of makes you wonder what they might achieve if they cared a fig about fine dining restaurant conventions . . .
It is interesting to note that the on-line page of the Guide Michelin for Chicago
http://www.michelinguide.com/us/chicago_stars_2011.html
provides clickable links to reserve a table at every other restaurant except Schwa and one other.
Frankly, we hope they remain fiercely independent and are relieved that all the hoopla about Michelin stars seems to have subsided a bit, and they can get back to being intensely focused on doing what they do so well.
We're willing to deal with the quirks for the amazing dining adventures they offer.
One final hint: If you're taking wine for yourselves, take an interesting bottle for the kitchen.
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